LA BULLE BLOG PAGE

Updated: Aug 25


The material used for the manufacture of molds and accessories is a polymer

of plant origin and biodegradable.

3D Molds

How to use:



  • Bath bombs:

Assemble the base and the sleeve part. Fill with product and press flat on a table.


Unmold by sliding the sleeve out. Tap with the back of a spoon to dislodge the bath bomb from the surface.


Let dry outside of the mold.




  • Shampoos:

It is recommended to cover both sides with plastic wrap before use.


Assemble the base and thesleeve, fill with product and press flat on a table. Unmold by sliding sleeve out.


Let dry outside of the mold.




Care and clean:


Easy to clean, rinse with cold water only and wipe dry immediately with a dry cloth.

Do not soak in water.


Do not wash in the dishwasher, use hot water or detergents.


Store in a dry place, away from heat and humidity.


Soap Stamps

How to use:

Use your stamp on your soaps after saponification, depending on the recipe and the consistency of the soap between 24 and 36 hours after cutting.


You can cover with plastic wrap before pressing.


It is not necessary to fully press the stamp into the soap, experiment to see when is the best time to stamp according to your recipe and cure.


These stamps work as much with soap made by saponification as with melt and pour bases.


Care and clean :


After using your stamp, you can use a nail brush to clean it.

Rinse it under cold water only and wipe it off immediately with a dry cloth.


Do not soak in water.


Do not wash in the dishwasher, use hot water or detergents.


Store in a dry place, away from heat and humidity.


Soap Doh Molds

How to ues:


It is recommended to cover your mold with plastic wrap before pressing the dough inside.


The chemical reaction with saponification as well as heat should be avoided.


* Note that these molds have also been tested with cold soap bases and 70 ℃ (160 ℉) glycerin by spraying alcohol before pouring.


Results: The molds are not affected but d

unmolding is not easy without the plastic wrap.



Care and clean:


Easy to clean, rinse with cold water only and wipe dry immediately with a dry cloth. Do not soak in water.


Do not wash in the dishwasher, use hot water or detergents.


Store in a dry place, away from heat and humidity.

Updated: Oct 13



Recipe


290 g (58%) Baking soda

156 g (31.2%) Citric Acid (add to recipe at the end)

5 g (1%) SLSA (surfactant)

9 g (1.8%) Cream of Tartar

5 g (1%) White Clay (Kaolin)

10 g (2%) Arrowroot starch powder


5 g (1%) Cocoa Butter

6 g (1.2%) Polysorbate 80

5 g (1%) Avocado oil

5 g (1%) Coco Betaine

4 g (0.8%) Fragrance of your choice

0.25 g Pigment (Lake) of your choice (I used Red 40 in the picture)


A small spray bottle of distilled water or 99% alcohol.


This recipe will give you 500g of mixture.


Safety:


Wear a mask and gloves when handling surfactants, SLSA powder is very volatile and can be harmful to your health if you breathe it in.


Instructions:


Mix the dry ingredients except the citric acid, which will be added at the very end to the wet mixture to avoid precipitating the chemical reaction.


Heat the cocoa butter alone to melt it and then add the other liquid ingredients.


The colorant can be added to the liquid ingredients before mixing, it will facilitate the dispersion of the pigments.


Add the liquids into the previous mixture, mix and finally add the citric acid.





Mix everything well to form a ball in your hands. Release there about 30 cm (12 '') above the bowl, if the ball remains firm, the mixture is ready to mold.


If the ball comes apart and powder, you will need to add a little bit of water to bind the mixture, use a small cosmetic-type spray (not a large garden spray!) And add a little bit of spray to the mixture*).


Be careful not to add too much water to activate the mixture.


* If you notice that it is necessary to add several shots of water spray, adjust your recipe by adding a little more oil next time.


Relative humidity plays a huge role in the making and drying of bath bombs. Opt for a dry place and in summer it is recommended to work with a dehumidifier in your workshop.


Mold and let dry 24-48 hours on a surface covered with paper towels (to absorb excess moisture)


Discover a multitude of options for your creations with La Bulle molds!

Contact us for your special requests and personalized designs!


Did you like our recipe ?! You have questions? Share your creations on our group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/bathbombmolds


Follow us on Youtube:

https://www.youtube.com/savonnerielabulle



Security is the most important thing to know when making soap. This is just some general informations and I encourage you to look at some videos and tutorials before starting the adventure of soap making. This blog is not covering the details of soap making but only a general understanding of the safety precautions when working with lye.


Be aware of cautions on the ingredients you are using and ensure you have the right safety precautions ...

Sodium Hydroxyde or Lye (NaOH)

or Potassium Hydroxide (KOH)

are the most used alcali in soap making to create the saponification reaction.

Always use goggles, gloves and a mask when you are working with Lye.

Wear long sleeves and pants and shoes. Les less skin is uncovered, the less risks you take ;)

Remove safety protections only when you are done with the washing of your tools and your soap is in the mould.


Use a heat-proof plastic or stainless steel container.

No glass. No aluminium (this will react with the caustic ingredients)


ALWAYS add lye to water... so...

NEVER add you liquid to the lye powder or solution.


Add lye slowly to water. This will bring the temperature of the water really high. Some people prefer to use ice cubes instead of water. Then wait for your lye solution to cool down before making a cold processed (CP) soap. Depending of the recipe you are making, there's different ways to adjust the temperature, it's a simple suggestion.


If you aren't following a recipe ,always work with a lye calculator to know the amount of required lye witch is different for each oils you are saponifying. Browse your google friend to get some calculators links , you'll find the one you prefer !

I suggest this simple one : http://soapcalc.net/


You need to know that the sodium hydroxide (Lye) will NOT stay in your soap! It will take about 4 to 6 weeks to a CP soap to cure. There is no lye in the soap at the end. What is left behind is saponified oils only.


Ready... set... SOAP !!!


1
2